In the late 1980s, friends introduced me to this inspiring old southern Arizona mission, and I found myself stopping by whenever I was in the area. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, I visited the mission several times while making trips in and out of Mexico, either for the winter months or for short visits. Each time the mission was in a restoration process. San Xavier del Bac Mission, ten miles south of Tucson, remains the center of a centuries-old Tohono O’odham (Papago) Indian Reservation, and is sometimes referred to as “The White Dove of the Desert.”

Jesuit missionary Eusebio Francisco Kino, better remembered as Father Kino, founded the mission in 1692. Often visiting and preaching in the area, he was instrumental in founding Spanish missions throughout the Sonoran Desert. He had the foundation laid for the church before he died in 1711. 

Here’s where the history gets a little fuzzy. According to one source, Father Espinosa constructed the first church in 1756. Another source says that Apaches destroyed “the original mission church” around 1770. 

In between, Spain’s Charles III banned all Jesuits from Spanish lands in the Americas (Southern Arizona was part of New Spain) in 1767 because of his distrust of the Jesuits. From that time on, San Xavier was led by the more “pliable and reliable” Spanish Franciscans.

The present building, constructed with mostly native labor between 1783 and 1797, was under the direction of Franciscan Fathers Velderrain and Llorenz. 

Gap in History
Little is known about the mission from 1797 until 1828 except that in 1821 the newly independent Mexican government and the Catholic Diocese of Sonora banned all Spanish-born priests. They just didn’t seem to like anybody!  I don’t know who ran the place from 1821 to 1828, and apparently historians don’t either. After that, the church was vacant until 1858. It was deteriorating and decaying until the local Indians did what they could to preserve it.

With the Gadsden Purchase in 1853 of an area that became part of Arizona and New Mexico, the church was brought under U.S. jurisdiction. Repaired once again, the mission was reopened in 1859 and a priest was assigned. An 1887 earthquake required more extensive repairs. In 1913, the Franciscans were allowed back.

In 1939, lightning struck the West Tower, but once again it was restored. In 1960, the mission was declared a National Historic Landmark.

Water Damage
Sometimes the old ways are better than new ways. It was discovered that the modern concrete stucco applied in the 1980s trapped water inside the church and damaged the interior decoration. This material was replaced with the traditional mud plaster, a pulp from the prickly pear cactus that “breathes” better and allows excess water to escape. An international team of experts was brought in to clean, remove over-painting, and repair and paint the interior and sculptured art.  As you can tell, preserving this magnificent church for future generations is an extensive (and expensive) ongoing project.

Unlike other Arizona Spanish missions, San Xavier is still actively served by Franciscans, who in turn serve the Native American community. Little is known of the architect, builders, craftsmen and artisans who created the mission, although it is believed that the paintings are the work of at least three different artists. Since local Indians provided much of the building labor, it is possible that the artisans may also have been native.

The San Xavier exterior is startlingly white, with a series of domes and arches against a backdrop of brown desert, green fields, blue sky and mountains. One of the first things you notice when you drive in is that the second tower is unfinished. Any building that old has its legends and the one surrounding this second tower is that early taxation laws exempted buildings that were under construction, so the builders left one dome unfinished.

Making a Connection
The entrance is ornately decorated by the massive carved mesquite-wood doors that lead inside. I felt the desire to touch them and connect with the faithful of a century or two ago. The many visitors are quiet and reverent as they step back in time into one of the oldest, best preserved examples of 18th Century Spanish Mission architecture.  They are awed by its original statuary, carvings, frescoes and brightly painted murals.

The church floor plan is in the form of the classic Latin cross. A choir loft looks down on the sanctuary. The center aisle is separated from the sanctuary by the cross aisle with chapels at either end. The dome above is 52 feet high, supported by arches and squinches (supports). 

After two centuries, the mission is still used as a community center for the Tohono O’odham. One source says a school was opened in 1872, and another source says 1895. Whichever, more classrooms were added in 1900, and in 1947, a new school was built next to the church for the native children.

The San Xavier Festival is held Friday evening after Easter and features fireworks and a torchlight parade of Tohono O’odham and Yaqui tribe members. This is an active church and services are open to everyone. Be respectful of those observing Mass or in prayer. God Bless.

Autographed copies of 2009 fourth edition RVing Alaska and Canada  ($19.95) and Advent-ures with the Silver Gypsy ($14.95) are available through Sharlene Minshall, Box 1040, Congress, AZ 95332-1040, or at Amazon.com. Follow Sharlene Minshall’s blog, “The Silver Gypsy,” at rvlife.com

Visiting the Mission
The San Xavier del Bac Mission is located off Interstate 19 at Exit 92, on the San Xavier Indian Reservation, six miles south of Interstate 10 in Tucson.

Catholic Mass is celebrated at hours that change seasonally, and special Masses are scheduled at Christmas and Easter.  The mission church is open to the public from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except during weddings, funerals or other occasions. There is no admission charge for visitors. For information, visit sanxaviermission.org.

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