A Mushroom Primer

You know it’s fall in the Northwest when the air gets damp and the rains start to come, mixed with a few days of sunshine. In the early autumn, just after a rain, there’s a damp, musky scent in the forest, and it is then that the foragers for wild mushrooms head into the woods.

Mushrooming seems to satisfy the primeval urge to hunt, although the only weapons you need are a digging tool and a basket. There are no little wooded paths to follow—most likely it will take a hike into the deep woods. Mushrooming is the perfect Northwest outdoor sport.

But harvesting the wrong mushroom varieties can have deadly consequences. There are important rules to follow, and the first is to take heed of the warning that many mushrooms are poisonous. Be sure you know what you are picking and eating. Hunt with an experienced mushroom-picking friend or join a mycological society and link up with one of their field trips.

Mushrooms are unique. These nondescript brown lumps have the ability to make things rot while they cower timidly under fallen leaves. They are the fruiting bodies of certain fungi, and their colors range from screaming scarlets, curious yellows, pastel greens, rich maroons and pure white to jet-black.

Good mushrooming protocol is to cut your mushrooms with a knife at ground level rather than pull them up. This way you leave the dirt and sandy bottoms in the ground. Place your prizes in a basket or bucket, never a plastic bag! They sweat and suffocate in plastic since they are 90-95 percent water.

Wild mushrooms are nothing like the supermarket variety, and that is OK with me. I can do without the wild, robust, earthy flavors, with subtle fruity or nutty undertones, and their rustic beauty. You will find in the supermarkets today some of the more exotic varieties, so now is the perfect time to start thinking, and cooking, beyond the button.

Here are some varieties:
• Shitake: Rich, with a woodsy flavor and meaty texture when cooked. Use in stir-fry dishes or stuffings.
• Enoki: Crunchy and sweet. Use raw in salads and sandwiches or as a garnish for soups.
• Porcini: Chocolaty and complex. Superb in many Italian dishes.
• Crimini: Mildly woody. Use the same as white mushrooms.
• Oyster: Creamy with a subtle brininess. Perfect with seafood and in pastas.
• Chanterelle: Mild apricot scent and flavor. Sauté and serve with eggs.
• Maitake, also called Hen of the Wood: Sweet and nutty. Cook minimally and serve as a side dish.
• Agaricus: (white button): Most common variety; mild, woodsy flavor when raw, delicate when cooked. Very versatile.

MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR STEAK
1/2 pound fresh shitake mushrooms, stems removed
8-oz. sliced button mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 cups beef broth
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon cornstarch smoothly mixed with 3 tablespoons water
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil

Cut shitake caps into one-fourth-inch-thick slices. In large skillet combine shitakes and buttons with olive oil and ginger over medium-high heat. Cover and cook, stirring often, until mushrooms are lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Add broth and garlic to pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then stir in cornstarch mixture until sauce is thickened. While mushrooms cook, mix together hoisin sauce, rice vinegar and sesame oil; add to the mushroom mixture.

TUSCAN MUSHROOM SOUP
2 onions, cut in moons
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 cloves garlic
4 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms, chopped
1 pound of sliced crimini, portobello or button mushrooms or some of each.
4 cups vegetable stock or water
1 cup dry red wine or apple juice with 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt and pepper to taste

In a large pot sauté onions in oil on medium-high for 5-10 minutes, or until translucent. Stir in garlic and sauté until onions begin to brown (about 5 minutes). Stir in sliced mushrooms and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add porcini, stock, and wine; bring to a simmer and cook 30 minutes. Add sage, salt and pepper and cook another 10-20 minutes. Makes about 6 cups

ROASTED GREEN BEANS WITH MUSHROOMS
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed
8-oz. fresh button, shitake or crimini mushrooms
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sesame oil
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes
1/8 teaspoon salt

Put green beans in a pot, cover with water, bring to a boil and boil one minute; drain. Plunge into ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain and spread evenly in a 13-inch x 9-inch baking pan. Combine mushrooms, garlic, ginger, oil, soy sauce, red chili flakes and salt in a medium bowl; pour over green beans. Bake in 450-degree oven 20-25 minutes or until beans are tender, stirring occasionally. Serves 4.

Mushrooms are full of medicinal magic. Their unique chemicals may help boost immunity, fend off infections and fight cancer, as well as counter high blood sugar, high cholesterol, high blood pressure, inflammation and blood clots.

When selecting at the supermarket, look for mushrooms with a fresh, smooth appearance, free from blemishes. Keep mushrooms refrigerated and use within several days. Do not clean until ready to use. To clean, gently wipe mushrooms with a damp cloth to remove particles, or rinse with cold water and pat dry. Never soak mushrooms; they are porous and absorb water. There is no need to peel mushrooms; the only trimming they need is at the stem end.
Always remember that harvesting the wrong mushroom varieties can have deadly consequences.

Mycological clubs all over the United States organize courses and mushroom-collecting forays, often followed by feasts, that are scheduled to coincide with high mushroom seasons. To find the group closest to where you live or might be traveling, contact the North American Mycological Association, 3556 Oakwood, Ann Arbor, MI 48104-5213. Phone: (313) 971-2552. E-mail: kwcee@umich.edu.

HINT OF THE MONTH: Toss one-fourth pound sliced mushrooms with one tablespoon lemon juice to prevent mushrooms from turning gray when cooked.

Marian Platt’s regional narrative cookbook of Washington’s Sequim Valley, From My Kitchen Window, can be ordered by sending cash, check or money order for $25 (includes tax and handling/mailing costs) to Marian Platt, 434 Chicken Coop Rd., Sequim, WA 98382. Phone (360) 683-4691.