November 2007

Step into the Old West

Metropolitan Phoenix is only 54 miles away, but a visit to Wickenburg takes you back to the Old West. And if you journey a little ways north, you will find Prescott, another town with a rich frontier tradition.

Established in 1863, Wickenburg is in the heart of what was once called the Arizona Territory. Wickenburg was known for many years as “The Dude Ranch Capital of the World,” and it still has many guest ranches that offer western charm and hospitality. But it also has much more.

For example, there is Desert Caballeros Western Museum, which offers a variety of cowboy memorabilia, including old saddles, bridles, guns and holsters. The museum includes a mineral exhibit with an interesting collection of rocks, gems and mining history. And its Native American room has examples of Southwest Indian arts, crafts and artifacts. There’s also western art and a local history gallery.

In addition to the museum, Wickenburg is known for its fine art galleries and antique stores.

Mining Lore
Not far from town is a unique site for mining enthusiasts—the historic Vulture Gold Mine. Gold strikes in the West inspired Henry Wickenburg to dig for gold in the nearby Harquahala Mountains around 1863. At first nothing of interest was found and his mining partners gave up on the mining venture.

Several years later Henry Wickenburg developed the site with new partners and more than $30 million in gold was taken from the mine. There is a self-guided tour of the mine site and buildings. Mining buffs also will want to see Robson’s Mining World. This once prosperous mining community has the world’s largest collection of old mining equipment and other interesting relics.

Bird watchers should visit the Hassayampa River Preserve. This riparian area has about 280 species of birds living or nesting within the preserve. There are self-guided trails along the river bottom and through the cottonwood-willow forest. The Hassayampa River flows underground during most of its 100-mile course through the desert, but emerges in the preserve throughout the year.

Whiskey Row
North of Wickenburg is Prescott, with its rustic saloons and frontier history. The town of Prescott emerged as a mining town after California’s big gold rush had ended, and prospectors were attracted to the Southwest by rumors of rich gold strikes.

As it turns out, President Abraham Lincoln became interested in that gold, too. He had hopes of using it to fund the North during the Civil War, and signed the law that created the Arizona Territory. Prescott was established as Arizona’s first territorial capital. Eventually, Prescott lost its title to Tucson, and then Tucson lost the title to Phoenix.

Prescott’s famed block 13 had the distinctive nickname of “Whiskey Row,” and it became one of Arizona’s most famous streets. Forty saloons were built on Whiskey Row to provide entertainment for cowboys and miners.

A devastating fire burned Prescott to the ground in 1900. The Palace Saloon, which opened in 1877, was destroyed but its elaborately carved mahogany bar was saved when patrons carried it out to the street. After the fire, the saloon was rebuilt and reopened.

In fact, the entire town was rebuilt. About 525 of the buildings are now on the National Register of Historic Places.

Today, the Palace Saloon is the oldest frontier saloon in Arizona, drawing people who enjoy good food and Old West memorabilia. On my visit, I enjoyed the food, the décor and the nostalgia.

The walls of the Palace Saloon are decorated with photos of patrons from the Wild West era. Wyatt Earp, Virgil Earp, Doc Holliday and Big Nose Kate are just a few of the famous faces. Gambling artifacts and Old West collector’s items are featured in glass display cases, too. But it’s the mahogany Brunswick Bar from the 1880s (24 feet long and 12 feet high) that’s most amazing to see.

Most of the buildings along Whiskey Row have been converted into shops, creating a thriving shopping district.

Four miles from downtown Prescott is scenic Watson Lake, which sits amid enormous rock formations called the Granite Dells. The lake is a playground for canoeing, kayaking and fishing.

There is a large parking lot along Highway 89 where visitors can stop to look at the lake. But if you’re interested in camping, Watson Lake has overnight camping in the summer months. Another haven for campers is Point of Rocks Campground on Highway 89. Gigantic granite boulders surround this campground, secluding it from the highway. The campground is clean, quiet, and close to town. In addition to Watson Lake, there are several other lakes and recreation areas near Prescott.

For those who want to camp away from town, there are about a dozen campgrounds and picnic areas in Prescott National Forest. This forest also has 2,500 miles of primitive roads and 450 miles of hiking trails. Mountain biking, backpacking and horseback riding are enjoyed as well. There are some trails for off-highway vehicles, too.

Evalyn Neuhaus is a writer who lives in Arizona.

IF YOU GO

Wickenburg is best visited from October through April since the summertime temperature can climb into the triple digits. For information, visit www.wickenburgchamber.com.
Prescott is a year-round destination, but the camping season in Prescott National Forest generally runs from April or May through October. For tourist information, visit www.prescott.org.