Riding the Rails in San Luis Valley

I don’t know about you, but riding the train, even a modern one, is like going back to the Old West to me. As I sit on board, listening to the clickety-clack of the train, I imagine the days when bison roamed the plains. I see Native Americans riding with the wind; I see teepees on a bluff overlooking a river.

Recently, I rode “America’s Most Authentic Railroad.” Built in 1880, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad (C&TS) is not only a historic railroad, but it’s a terrific example of steam-era mountain railroading. The recipient of many accolades, the railroad is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and it’s described as one of “America’s Best Working Museums.” It is also America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge steam railroad, and it’s ranked the seventh most visited destination in New Mexico. The Society of International Railway Travelers named it “one of the best 20 railway experiences in the world.”

Although the railroad no longer hauls precious metals up and over Cumbres Pass, it now transports a more important commodity—visitors looking for a unique experience. Here, guests in need of a look back at the Old West can find it, along with spectacular scenery, historic buildings and railroad equipment dating to the turn of the 20th century or earlier.

Sadly, the railroad was abandoned when standard railroad gauge became the norm. Fortunately, the states of New Mexico and Colorado joined forces in 1970 and purchased the railroad track and line-side structures from Antonito, Colorado, to Chama, New Mexico. In addition, they purchased nine steam engines, more than 130 freight and work cars, as well as the Chama yard and maintenance facility. The selling price was $547,120. The following year the C&TS started transporting tourists.

I rode the C&TS, no doubt the best-preserved steam-era railroad in North America, with my husband, Mike, and his dad, Roger. Our gift to him for his 76th birthday was the ride from Antonito to Chama.

Antonito is a small town that sits in the San Luis Valley at an elevation of 7,888 feet. The San Luis Valley is an amazing place for it is the highest and largest inhabited alpine valley in the world. Surrounded by 13,000- and 14,000-foot peaks, the expansive valley is home to an array of animals, including pronghorns, elk, and mule deer, and much in the way of bird life too.

The line consists of 64 miles of narrow-gauge track. It is a segment of the former Denver & Rio Grande narrow-gauge system that once spanned hundreds of miles through Colorado, New Mexico and Utah. Today, the remaining route crisscrosses the Colorado/New Mexico border 11 times and passes over Windy Point, with its commanding view of Chama Valley. It also transports passengers through two tunnels and over two 100-foot trestles, permits views into 600-foot-deep Toltec Gorge, and offers a chance to be on the Continental Divide atop 10,015-foot-high Cumbres Pass.

We endured many kinds of weather on our journey to Chama. We had sunshine and warm weather, cold and rain, and hail too. Of course, that’s typical summer weather for this part of the country. During our trip we looked for animals and imagined filming the various movies, commercials, TV shows, travelogues, and documentaries that were made along the route. Movie hits include The Good Guys and the Bad Guys (1968), The Fortune (1974), Legend of the Lone Ranger (1980), and Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1988).

During our journey we stopped for lunch in the old stagecoach town of Osier. A delicious home-style meal was included in the price of our tickets so we filled up on a hot meal with salad bar and homemade desserts.

The train engine took on water at Cumbres Pass, located on top of the Continental Divide, the line that divides the flow of water between the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. It was all downhill from Cumbres Pass to Chama. Along the way we passed through groves of aspens and thought this would be a wonderful place to be in the fall. It was raining when we arrived in Chama, but nothing could dampen our spirits as we loaded onto a bus for the ride back to Antonito. As we watched the beautiful scenery pass by we thought of the happy memories we had made.

The Facts
The train offers comfortable coaches. Windows open for fresh (or not so fresh air—this is a steam engine so expect smoke). Passengers have reserved seats, but they are allowed to walk around and view the scenes from the open observation car. There are snacks, film supplies and souvenirs on board. Restrooms are available at the stations in Antonito and Chama, on the trains and motor coaches, and at the Osier lunch facility.

The altitude and climate vary so expect the weather to change during the day. Be sure to layer your clothing so you can adjust. And be sure to wear something that you don’t mind getting a little dirty. Smoke and cinders are a given on a steam locomotive.

The train operates from the Memorial Day weekend through mid-October. Trains run seven days a week and tickets are available online and by telephone. Itineraries vary according to the day of the week and the time of the year. Passengers can ride the train from either end and take a motorcoach back to the start. All Cumbres & Toltec trains and one motor coach feature wheelchair lifts. If you need such access be sure to notify the station staff at the time of your reservation. For more information, call (888) 286-2737 or check out www.cumbrestoltec.com.

More SLV Trains
The San Luis Valley’s newest railroad, the Rio Grande Scenic Railroad, is another must for train buffs and visitors alike. The railroad offers two train routes, both of which begin in the valley’s largest town, Alamosa. (Alamosa may be the largest town in the valley, which spans just over 8,000 square miles and has an average elevation of 7,500 feet, but it’s still a small town with just over 8,000 people. The entire valley boasts a population of less than 50,000.)

The Toltec Gorge Limited makes the round-trip from Alamosa to Antonito and offers a unique way to get to the historic Cumbres & Toltec train in Antonito. But the most scenic adventure aboard the San Luis Express heads east from Alamosa and crosses the Sangre de Cristo Mountains en route to the quaint town of La Veta. Here, as in bygone days, passengers will find a soda bar, a neighborhood bakery where locals meet, and art galleries, restaurants, and shops offering an array of items. The ride from Alamosa to La Veta and back is breathtaking, especially in the fall when the mountains are alive with golds and reds. From the flat realms of Alamosa, passengers ride east, slowly climbing up and over the mountains that are more than 14,000 feet high, and then drop down the other side to the peaceful town of La Veta.

In addition to the daily trains to La Veta, passengers traveling on weekends and holidays can now enjoy the newest addition, a 1901 steam locomotive. For more information call (877) 726-7245 or check out www.alamosatrain.com.

Donna Ikenberry is a writer and photographer who lives in South Fork, Colorado.