Snorkeling Off Baja

By Donna Ikenberry

His name is Pablo. He's a diving instructor and it shows. As he enters the intense blue water, sporting snorkeling gear instead of the usual tanks and other diving equipment, a group of wanna-be-expert snorkelers follow behind. Suddenly, there's a terrific barking and the snorkelers stare wide-eyed at one another, swallowing hard, trying to remember to breathe. Pablo smiles easily and gracefully descends amid a colony of playful sea lions.

As the novices bob upon the surface, they watch entranced as Pablo touches the ocean floor, gently grabs onto a rock ledge and with head down and feet pointing to the surface, blows air bubbles toward the sky. Ring upon perfect ring drift upward, calorie-free doughnuts for the young bull sea lions to play with. Suddenly, one of the whiskered mammals grabs a snorkeler's fin; another swims straight at someone's mask, then veers away. The sea lions are playing tag; they're playing chicken, and all while they are performing one of the most beautiful of underwater ballets. Pablo joins the ballet, and like the rest of the troupe, rises to the surface for a breath of fresh air.

Snorkeling with sea lions off the waters surrounding the island of Los Islotes is just one of the many adventures you'll encounter while exploring El Espiritu Santo Island, the adjoining La Partida Island, and the region surrounding it. An uninhabited island complex north of La Paz, in Baja California in the south Sea of Cortez, it offers more than 25 miles of shoreline, with numerous sandy coves and inlets for exploring. In addition to sea lions, you'll swim with a variety of fish, ranging from tiny, delicate creatures to large, pancake-flat rays, species representing all shades of the rainbow.

Other activities include sea kayaking, hiking, birding and fishing, and if that isn't enough, or you're just into something a little less strenuous, you'll enjoy the easy pleasures of pastel sunrises and crimson sunsets.

Desert Island

El Espiritu Santo Island may seem barren, but it's not. Instead, the fascinating plants of the Sonoran Desert blanket the islands. (Most of the islands in the Gulf of California lack water, thus the region has developed more slowly and remains relatively uninhabited. Most of the human population is concentrated in the few coastal areas with a dependable water supply.)

Although the Mexican Navy inhabited the islands earlier this century, the first known occupants were the Pericues natives, who survived mostly by fishing. The Pericues inhabited the islands prior to the first arrival of Spaniards in 1533, and remained on the islands until 1734.

The islands are uninhabited today, though semi-permanent fishing camps have been established there. Animals are the only full-time occupants, some of which include non-native pests such as the feral goat.

The Espiritu Santo Island complex is in the Eastern Bay of La Paz and consists of several islands—Los Islotes, Isla Partida, Isla Espiritu Santo, and the smaller islands of Ballena, Gallo, and Gallina. At low tide, Isla Partida and El Espiritu Santo Island join fingers to become one. At high tide, the islands are separated by a narrow and shallow channel.

Strange Flora

Hiking sections of the island is the best way to get a feel for the area. As you explore some of the canyons, you'll see wild strangler fig trees clinging spider-like to vertical volcanic ash cliffs painted in yellow, black, and red, while giant cardon cactus aim for the heavens.

While searching the island, look for the black jackrabbit, an oddity in this desert climate. And at night while you're lounging around camp, gazing to the west after a fiery sunset, or looking up at the zillions of stars shining down upon you, watch for a furry camp visitor, the ring-tailed cat.

As mentioned previously, snorkeling is a fun and favored pastime for many. And the protected bays of Espiritu Santo are perfect for beginners. The same goes for kayaking. If you're new to the sport, you'll have no problem learning in one of the sheltered bays. (Unlike river kayaks, sea kayaks are very stable and do not tip easily.)

Sea kayaking is a perfect way to do some serious bird watching. Nearly 70 species of birds have been recorded in the islands and nearby waters. Look for turkey vultures as you cruise the shoreline and offshore rocks, as well as for brown pelicans, magnificent frigate birds, and brown- and blue-footed boobies. Known as one of the world's most comical-looking seabirds, the blue-footed booby is so called because its lack of fear and its clumsiness on land have made it easy prey for man. (The name “booby” comes from the Spanish word bobo, which means “stupid fellow.”)

Whale Watching

Visitors in the spring have the best opportunities to see blue whales, the world's largest mammals, ply the deep waters. Look for pods of orcas, sperm whales, and common dolphins as well.

And of course, there are the sea lions. The rookery at Los Islotes has increased in herd size continually throughout the past years, with 105 pups born during the summer of 1993. The rookery, also a popular tourist attraction, is used as a haul-out site by both male and female sea lions on a year-round basis.

If you want to enter the “turf” of a sea lion; if kayaking along a golden cliff at sunset sounds like fun; if sharing a meal by moonlight with fellow travelers is something you would enjoy; if sitting atop a volcanic summit with someone special is something you'd like to share; then come to El Espiritu Santo Island for one of many fun-filled adventures.

Donna Ikenberry is a travel writer who lives in South Fork, Colorado.