Exploring Colorado’s Back Roads

Trails and back roads near Telluride in southwestern Colorado offer a lot to explore on foot, bike and four-wheel drive in the summer.

My husband, Wayne, and I enjoy traveling the back roads—seeing wildlife, old mining shacks, and the incredible scenery that we would miss if all we did was browse in town.

Driving a high-mountain pass takes some skill, and some of Telluride’s rocky four-wheel drive roads are not for everyone. As Wayne negotiated the switchbacks, I enjoyed the scenic views. But there were times when I got out and walked. Sometimes the rocks were slippery, and sometimes our tires were barely on the edge of the mountainside.
Our first adventure started in Ophir, once an old mining town. Just past the post office, we noticed a small pullout and parked the RV and unloaded our Suzuki. It wasn’t long before we noticed mountain climbers clinging to the nearby mountain face. Climbers told us this was the Ophir Wall—a good place to practice climbing skills.

We drove east to Old Ophir, which is actually a newer town than Ophir and has 100 to 200 residents. Trees, wildflowers and the canyons and valleys provided beautiful scenery as we drove along. Although it was August, there was still snow on the ground, and the snowmelt created small streams that ran across the road, though none were deep enough to block our way. The road was rutted, rocky and steep in many spots.

Ophir Pass turned out to be a true cliffhanger, with numerous switchbacks, and it took us several hours to reach Highway 550. We drove to the old mining town of Silverton, then back to Ophir and our motorhome.

Our next adventure began on Alta Lake Road, which leads to Alta Lakes. The road is narrow, rocky in spots, and not recommended for large RVs, though four-wheel drive vehicles and truck campers can handle it easily. One hazard is that mountain bikers come down the road really fast.
Along the way to the lakes we passed the old mining camp called Alta, where ruins are all that are left. The road to Alta Lakes is secluded and quiet amid lots of trees and stunning scenery. There were campers and fishermen at the lakes, and several anglers told us the lakes are full of trout.

Our most memorable drive was to Bridal Veil Falls—at 350 feet the longest free-falling waterfall in Colorado. There is a small parking area for visitors, and we drove up to the old hydropower plant, which is perched at the top of the falls and has been converted to a private residence. The waterfall is jaw-dropping spectacular.

After visiting the falls, we explored the town of Telluride. The town is only about 10 blocks long and five blocks wide, so it can be covered on foot, but a free shuttle bus also is available.
We found only one campground in Telluride—Telluride Town Park with 29 sites and no hookups. The most scenic campground we saw was at Lizard Head Pass, but there are no designated sites or services. The view is extraordinary however, and the Lizard Head Wilderness Area has 41,193 acres of high-altitude hiking.

Hiking and biking trails in the San Juan Mountains are plentiful and accessible, many starting in the town of Telluride. Horseback riding is another option, with several outfitters providing guides and horse for hire. For fishermen, there are two exceptional rivers—the free-flowing Dolores and the San Miguel—in addition to numerous small lakes. White water rafting and kayaking are also available.

Before heading home be sure to take the 12-minute gondola ride from Telluride to Mountain Village. The view is spectacular. For more information, see www.VisitTelluride.com.

Evalyn Neuhaus is a writer and RVer who lives in Elgin, Arizona.