July 2006

Capitalize on Salem

On the banks of the Willamette River in the center of the fertile Willamette Valley, Salem has always been a gathering place—first for the Kalapuya Native Americans, then for pioneers, missionaries and industrialists, and eventually for state government and commerce.

Today, it draws visitors with unique sights, interesting history and fun activities. Although Salem is Oregon’s capital, there are no bustling bypasses, confusing overpasses, heavy traffic, or other annoyances to discourage downtown visits. Instead, you’ll find plenty of free street and garage parking, and the city’s highlights are within a short distance of each other.

Begin your visit at Salem’s Riverfront Park with a magical ride on the old-world style Riverfront Carousel. For $1.25, you can listen to the authentic carousel band organ as you giddy up on one of 42 hand-carved, hand-painted horses. Their names—Tropical Breeze, Stardust, Razzle-Dazzle, Cloud Walker—are as beautiful and elaborate as the horses themselves, who were carved by 150 volunteer artisans.

Next, give your sea legs a try by hopping aboard the double-deck Willamette Queen—an 87-foot, 86-ton sternwheeler with twin paddles that’s a scaled down likeness of the former Mississippi and Yukon Territory riverboats. A brand new dock is just across from the carousel. Cruise with personable Captain Richard Chesbrough and listen to tales of riverboat history as he points out blue herons, osprey, and other wildlife along the banks of the Willamette River. You can also enjoy lunch or dinner on board.

Once back on dry land, head for the south end of Riverfront Park toward Eco Earth—a 25-foot tall stainless steel orb that, thanks once again to the spirit of volunteerism in Salem’s local art community, is quite the work of art! Formerly a storage tank for acid used in papermaking, Eco Earth is now covered with more than 86,000 glittering tiles representing people, places, and animals from across the planet.

Children’s Museum
If you’re visiting with children, take a short walk to the north end of Riverfront Park to A.C. Gilbert’s Discovery Village. Three Victorian homes serve as an interactive museum where kids can build, invent, play, and generally have fun. The Village’s namesake, A.C. Gilbert, is a native Oregonian and Olympic pole-vaulting gold medalist best known for having created the Erector Set.

Salem’s Downtown Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A self-guided walking tour of the district covers about seven blocks and showcases a variety of architectural styles. The Historic Elsinore Theatre, built in Tudor Gothic style 1926, has undergone extensive restoration over the past three years. Visit on the first Tuesday of each month at 1 p.m. and you can take a behind-the-scenes tour that is a real treat—especially when the tour guide plays the Wurlitzer organ.

The Reed Opera House is filled with delightful boutiques and restaurants, but in 1896 it served as a 1,500-seat auditorium. Weddings and other special events are still held on the second floor. And don’t miss the 1868 Italianate style Ladd and Bush Bank building, now occupied by U.S. Bank. The spacious formal lobby and cast iron ornamentation are beautiful—both inside and out!

Capitol View
The Capitol building is a few blocks east of downtown. Built in 1938, it is a Modern Greek structure and Salem’s most recognized landmark. In the marble lobby, beautiful wall murals illustrate Oregon’s history in fine detail—from the native Kalapuya Indians, who were Salem’s first residents, to the immigrants and pioneers who arrived from the East by riverboat and wagon. A huge bronze replica of the state seal is embedded in the floor. Overhead, the Capitol dome rises 106 feet and is elaborately painted with 33 stars to signify Oregon as the 33rd state to join the union. If you’re looking to burn off a few calories, do more than just look up—peek into the governor’s office and House and Senate chambers on the second floor and then continue hiking up 121 spiraling steps to the dome’s outdoor viewing area. Weather permitting, you’ll get a great bird’s eye view of the city and a close-up look at the gilded Oregon Pioneer statue that sits atop the building.

The Capitol grounds and adjacent Willson Park are lovely for strolling, and feature fountains and statues symbolic to the state’s history. Just across the street is the campus of Willamette University, which was founded in 1842, making it the first college in the Far West.

Early Migration
A few blocks east of the Capitol, Mission Mill Museum presents and preserves the contributions of two groups that were important to Oregon’s early history—missionaries and industrialists. Jason Lee’s Methodist Mission started the settlement of the Salem area in 1834, a few years prior to the Oregon Trail migration that brought thousands of pioneers from the East. The stark white Lee House and Parsonage can be toured and are thought to be the oldest remaining frame houses in the Pacific Northwest.

The distinctive red buildings of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill, founded in 1889, are also open for touring. It is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and is one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest still generating electricity from a millrace. The original turn-of-the-19th-century machinery and working miniature display mill with pulleys, belts and an elevator are especially impressive. Although the mill closed in 1962, descendents of Thomas Kay still own and operate Oregon’s world-renowned Pendleton Woolen Mills in Eastern Oregon. The Salem Convention and Visitors Association is also located on the grounds of the Mission Mill Museum, and offers maps, brochures and other information.

Historic Mansion
If you appreciate authentic historic homes, the nearby Bush House Museum on Mission Street is a must-see. The Italianate-style Victorian mansion was built by pioneer newspaper publisher/banker Asahel Bush II. His family lived there for 75 years. Built in 1877-1878, the Bush House was constructed with rare amenities such as indoor plumbing and hot and cold running water, gaslights, and central heating (although the house’s ten marble fireplaces would have been sufficient without it). In the backyard, the oldest conservatory (greenhouse) in Oregon, dating from 1882, contains dozens of plants—green thumbs will want to go inside for a look at some rare and unusual varieties.

The Bush House Museum is surrounded by Bush’s Pasture Park, where 100 acres of historic oak trees and landscaped rose gardens offer a great place to play and picnic. Also in the park is a Soap Box Derby track, the Bush Barn Art Center (housed in the original Bush family barn that was remodeled in 1965), walking paths, and a fun “crooked house” playground that’s perfect for kids. Every July, the park hosts the popular Salem Art Fair and Festival—Oregon’s premier community arts event showcasing 200 juried artists, live music, food vendors, and more.

The festival will be held from July 21 to July 23 this year. For information, phone (503) 581-2228 or visit www.salemart.org.

Other tourist information is available at www.travelsalem.com.

Denise Seith is a travel writer and assists businesses with their marketing and advertising. She can be reached through www.DeniseSeithCo.com or (503) 393-7975