RV Life - Back Issues

Storing Your RV

For those of us toiling in northern climes, RV storage is as common a rite of winter as digging out the Christmas lights and spraying the bottoms of the kid’s sleds with WD-40. But extended RV layoffs aren’t solely for those living in cold weather. For whatever reason (injury, busy schedule, extensive non-RV travel), you may find yourself tucking away your RV for an extended period. Here’s a comprehensive to-do list to get your vehicle ready for its big sleep.

Folks with an extra zero or two in their bank account may simply want to find a company that specializes in this sort of thing. Pay them a fat monthly fee and they’ll spread the TLC to your RV in a secure, off-site location. For this price, one can expect that the vehicle’s batteries won’t corrode, the pipes onboard won’t freeze, critters won’t find any place inside to prowl, and the tires won’t resemble mounds of pancake batter come April. For the rest of us, such preventative measures are ultimately up to us.

Do you and your rig a favor by finding a nice enclosed and heated location to store your vehicle. One with at least a token presence of security (fence, locked gates, snarling Rottweiler) is ideal. If the RV is stored outdoors, a heavy, insulated tarp is the least you can do to safeguard your investment since the sun’s oxidizing rays are still a factor, pollution is omnipresent, heavy snow and hail can still cause damage, and birds always love a stationary target.

Interior First
Now it’s time to ready the RV for its long period of inactivity, sometimes referred to as winterization. Before you start poking around under the hood or reaching for those holding tanks, start by emptying the vehicle of all non-essentials. This is a good time to remove clothing, linens, and upholstery for laundering as well as any food items that might attract bugs and varmints. All valuables should also be removed.

A long travel season’s worth of adventures probably took their toll on the once good looks of your motorhome or towable’s interior. Consider this the perfect time to vacuum, and not with one of those wimpy hand vacs, either. Enlist the aid of a shop vac or better yet, a rug cleaner, to help restore your carpet’s lost luster. Give the galley and bathroom a good cleaning, too. It’s a good idea to tackle any and all repair and maintenance problems now.

Your RV’s holding tanks and plumbing systems require a fair amount of help in preparation for their winter’s nap. The biggest risk, of course, is freezing liquids and the bursting pipes that inevitably follow. Make sure all tanks are as empty as possible after that final trip of the year. Purge remaining fluids by pulling the tank plugs; turn faucets, showers, and hoses on to remove any leftover drops. The water heater (consider a water heater bypass kit) and toilet must be voided as well. Your owner’s manual and appliance booklets should tell you how.

Necessary Chores
Cleaning the holding tanks is like sitting next to your deaf grandmother at Thanksgiving. Sure, you don’t really want to do it, but it’s important nonetheless. Plug in those open drains and use a high-powered hose, preferably one with a wand attachment, to blast the crannies of the black water tank via the toilet. While it seems everyone’s got their favorite cleansing agent to clean the holding tanks, a mixture of water and baking soda or bleach works well. Take the rig for a drive and let the sloshing effect do its thing by coating the tank walls. Dump the tanks, refill with clean water, and repeat as necessary. Again, not a pleasant chore but a must periodically to keep your water tasty and tanks odor- and clog-free. When finished, make sure all faucets, valves, and drains are closed to block access points from bugs and animals.

Another trick is to simply add a special, non-toxic kind of RV anti-freeze to all the tanks. A couple of cups per tank and down each drain should do it. Again, make sure the brand you select is appropriate for usage in the tanks. Activate the water pump, open up the various faucets, and let the stuff work its magic through the plumbing system. When going the anti-freeze route, it’s best to leave some water in the tanks to coat the seals. Be sure to shut off faucets and turn the pump off after the anti-freeze has circulated properly.

The LP system is a fairly quick fix. Store propane containers with the maximum amount of LP inside, which allows them to weather inactivity better than half-full versions. Never remove tanks and place inside the RV. Otherwise, shut off the supply valves completely and cover. Diligently turn off all LP appliances inside the RV as well.

As you’ve no doubt learned by now, refrigerators and freezers don’t like periods of inattention. Kind of like Jennifer Lopez. Unplug the unit and open the doors, which allows the units to thaw while preventing mold. Give the unit a good scrub-down once it reaches room temperature. Add a box of baking soda to absorb any lingering odors. Blow-drying the freezer’s icicles isn’t a good idea. RV fridges don’t handle this method like your trusty residential model.

Battery Care
Dormancy is sure to sap the strength from your 12-volt battery systems, so the best counter is to charge it fully before shutting down. The water levels should be topped off for the same reasons and the cables disconnected, negatives first. Otherwise, the best (and most industrious) method is to remove the battery completely, making sure its new home is of the dry and warm variety.

Call me superstitious, but I can’t relax knowing all those appliances and gadgets are plugged in. Pull all the plugs and enjoy peace of mind. And while you’re at it, make sure the RV’s main breaker panel is switched off as well, to preserve the 120-volt system. Again, consult those appliance manuals for their recommendations in terms of winterizing. This is a great time to perform any regular maintenance on your onboard gadgets.

Tires take a pounding during lengthy storage. If possible, try to move your stored motorhome or towable a foot or so a few times during its vacation. All that weight on the same location day after day just isn’t good for the rubber. Rotating tires slightly helps even-out weight distribution. If your leveling system is up to the task of long-term use (check that manual), employ it to keep tires off the ground.

Motorized owners need one more step than their towable brethren and that’s a quick tending to their engines. Top off the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer to keep it fresh. Idling the engine allows the agent to mix through the fuel lines. Top off the radiator with anti-freeze matched for your climate; flush and replace with a batch suited for Siberia-like temperatures if that is indeed the case. Inspect fluid levels through the engine (windshield wiper, oil, brake fluid, etc.), and refill as needed.

These final steps were designed to create an impenetrable barrier around your vehicle from everything from the sun’s rays to animals to that kid next door looking for a new hideout. Cover vents with plastic bags, foil, duct tape, or mesh to keep members of the animal kingdom from using your RV as their winter retreat. Just remember to uncover them in the spring! Exposed pipes should be covered, too. Create a no-vacancy zone by covering the air conditioner and sealing any tears or holes (a good idea anyway) topside on your RV. Turn dashboard vents to the off position. There’s no better time to spray for pests since no human will be onboard for a while to suffer the consequences.

Finally, lock those windows and close those blinds. You don’t need the sun bearing down on your furnishings or anyone casing the joint while you’re away. If it’s still sunny onboard, cover the furnishings with sheets to negate fading. Lock the door, give the RV a hug, and whisper sweet dreams. You’ll be back soon to play.